Last Updated:January 21, 2025, 15:15 IST

From polynucleotides to exosomes to biostimulators, the field of skin antiaging is experiencing an enormous growth with a deeper understanding of skin biology

Scientific advances in anti-ageing are now focussing on understanding the cellular and molecular mechanisms of the ageing skin. The anti-ageing market is expanding globally, and newer treatments are aimed at addressing the skin biology to enhance aesthetic appearance of individuals. Dr Atula Gupta, Dermatologist, Skin Aid helps us explore the upcoming innovations in anti-ageing that have been backed by scientific evidence.

1. Polynucleotides for skin healing and rejuvenationPolynucleotides (PN) are molecules that enable skin repair mechanisms at a cellular level. These molecules derived from salmon DNA reduce oxidative stress and increase collagen formation. Recent studies have shown that injections containing polynucleotides stimulated elastin and collagen production in ageing skin. It also increases skin hydration levels and removes free radical damage making it a perfect low recovery time procedure. New innovations like delivering polynucleotide injections through nano encapsulated technology increases stability and improves penetration of these molecules into the skin. During injectable treatments PN is being combined with hyaluronic acid, glutathione and growth factors that boost their overall results.
2. Senolytics for reducing cell senescenceSkin cellular senescence is a situation cells loose the ability to repair and remain active metabolically. This is followed by tissue degeneration. These senescent cells are known as “Zombie Cells” and senolytics enable anti ageing by removing these cells. New research has demonstrated that certain peptides when applied on the skin reduced these senescent cells. In clinical trials, individuals observed enhancement in skin firmness and reduction in wrinkles after 6 months of treatment. Few application-based formulations being developed include dasatinib and quercetin. Future innovations may explore the use of oral and injectable senolytics for full body anti-ageing.
3. BiostimulatorsUnlike hyaluronic acid fillers, biostimulators are gaining attention because of their ability to address biological components of skin ageing. These are injectables that produce collagen and elastin and give a more natural but gradual improvement in skin sagging and wrinkles. Recent biostimulators in the market are calcium hydroxylapatite and poly-L-lactic acid. They have been shown to increase skin collagen after 1-3 treatments with effects lasting up to two years. Recent advances in biostimulators are hybrid fillers. Hybrid fillers are a combination of biostimulators with hyaluronic acid and are excellent in providing long term improvement in facial sagging and deep furrows. AI-driven injectables are also being designed depending on the person’s skin architecture to help place the products optimally.
4. ExosomesExosomes are extracellular vesicles carrying bioactive molecules such as mRNA, lipids and proteins. They are gaining popularity because of their remarkable effects in tissue repair and skin revitalisation. Exosomes have been known to enhance wound healing and increased skin thickness. They are mostly delivered after microneedling and individuals with this treatment have shown an improvement in skin texture and fine lines. Exosomes are the new frontier in skin anti-aging and are being customised to tackle other skin concerns like laxity and pigmentation. Exosomes are easily applied after radiofrequency microneedling devices and fractional lasers and are beneficial in collagen production and skin repair.
5. Peptide based treatmentsPeptides promote collagen synthesis and enable tissue repair and are hence remain a cornerstone of anti-aging in skin. In clinical studies, neuropeptides have been shown to modulate muscle contractions and reduce forehead and frown lines. Matrixyl peptides also reduce wrinkle depth and enable collagen stimulation. New formulations have also combined peptides with antioxidants or growth factors for better skin rejuvenation.
6. EpigeneticsEpigenetics imply modifying gene expression. External factors such as unhealthy lifestyle, UV exposure and pollution contribute to epigenetic changes increasing skin aging. Recent breakthroughs focus on reversing these changes. Molecules like niacinamide and resveratrol are epigenetic modulators that enhance DNA repair and decrease oxidative stress in skin cells. A recent innovation are sirtuin activators which are molecules that target cellular longevity pathways, enhancing tissue repair

From polynucleotides to exosomes to biostimulators, the field of skin antiaging is experiencing an enormous growth with a deeper understanding of skin biology. The future therapies aim to address the root causes aging at cellular and molecular levels. These latest innovations hold promise for achieving healthier, more youthful skin.